I can drive like this :p

Now they fail to mention that the Buggati wont be road legal/registrable here or that it will cost somewhere between $2.7 and $3 Million dollars, but if you have the money for it I’m sure you could hire out any local race tracks a few times a week for some beyond amazing fun.

Now I just have to wait for the Koenigsegg to come to Australia and I will be one happy little boy.

Watch a video Review of the Bugatti at Sandown: The world’s fastest road car

Again will i state before this install that my engine is out, and i also have the intake manifold off making this task mush easier. Also at the bottom of this post i will included the few problems i encountered

First off me start with removing the old oil filter adaptor plate

Filter adaptor

In this photo we can see the oil filter and a plug which is the standard oil pressure switch that is connected to your dash light.

Also we see to Allen key bolts, there are 4 in total that you have to unbolt.

Once removed we end up with this.

Filter plate removed

Filter plate removed

Now a VERY IMPORTANT NOTE HERE! in the first image we see two orange seals on the filter adaptor plate. As there is no gasket on this surface these seals seal the oil flow into the filter plate. I tried to remove these seals to see if they were any good to use again, but years old they just fell apart.

Luckily i have a box full of water and oil o’rings and seals so i found some that matched the size i needed.

Rubber seals

You can see here on the new adaptor there is a recess for seals and i have a seal on one of them.

Use some grease to hold them in place while installing this back on.

Now was time to put the gauge senders in place. On either side of this adaptor is a small hole for a gauge sender. i decided to put the stock oil pressure switch in place as well as my vdo oil pressure sender for a gauge i have.

Gauge Senders

When putting in these kind of thing, use thread tape around the threads to create a nice seal, also the thread is tapered as to get tighter when screwing in. Be careful not to do them up to tight or too loose. Too tight can damage the thread or crack something.

Now time to screw it back on. Check again now to make sure your two rubber seals are still in place, if you think for 1 sec that these have come loose or fallen out while putting it back on, CHECK.. these are very important.

install the 4 allen key bolts back in and tighten.

New oil block

Here it is installed. looks good!

Now onto the important notes!

********************************

Firstly I will repeat, make sure the oil seals are in 100%.

Now in this image above you can see the gauge senders sticking out each side, one thing i check before putting it all together was if they were going to fit and clear everything. You can see a wiring coming off the standard sender, this is because there was just enough room for it to fit in there with the stock nissan plug, but enough for a spade terminal..

The VDO oil pressure sender was an even tighter fit against the starter motor, the starter actualy touches the poll coming out of it so i am going to cut this down a tad shorter..

All done

Steering Bush's

Here you can see the solid bush to the left and the standard rubber bush to the right.

So to start off documenting the install of this part i will first mention, my engine is NOT in the car.. making this task 100% easier.

First i started by undoing the 4 nuts that run through the bush, now the threads on the bolts have been intentionally damaged by Nissan after it was put together, so if one every came undone while driving the nut could never 100% fall off causing loss of steering, so these nuts are a bit difficult to remove.

It is best to have the wheels pointed straight for this and the steering lock on so nothing moves and the column wont turn while undoing the nuts..

Once i had everything undone i still couldn’t separate the two ends as the column was still tight onto the steering rack. As i am swapping steering racks next week i undone the knuckle to the rack and pulled it off from here so i could split the bush.

Bush removed

Steering column knuckle

You can see in the above photos first with the Bush removed and 2nd the Steering in knuckle i undone and pulled off the splined shaft. With the knuckle, spray some WD40 down there to loosen, also try to pry the knuckle apart a bit where the bolt goes through to loosen more, then grab onto it and pull/wiggle with all your might!!!

Now with all the parts on the bench pull you will have:

• 2xMetal braket things
• 4xPlastic collars
• 4xMetal collars in the rubber bush

Now we want to use all these parts on the metal bush. memorise how it all goes together on the rubber one as we want to run the same configuration on the metal bush.

With this next step i had heard that the holes in this particular Metal bush are too small for the collars and this was correct. I had to drill out the holes a tad, no more than a mm as you still want them tight.

try use basically the same size drill bit as the hole, and just gentle move the drill side to side in the hole to pull off a small layer of alloy.

Now the metal collars will still need a tap with a hammer to go in, but will now fit and fit snug.

Place the rubber collars over the metal collars, 2xeach side. then add the metal brackets to each side..

Assembled

Now the next step is tricky.. installing this bush back in with the column unbolted from the rack.

Once you bolt the 2 sides of the column to the bush you may or may not be able to get the steering knuckle back onto the splined shaft off the rack as there is now no play/flex in the bush to have the room to get it over.

As i mentioned i am swapping steering racks so will have mine out and when installing the new, i can fit it up then.

But for most this is not the case,.

On the steering column just above the knuckle you will see another bolt and some more splines, you need to losen this bolt and seperate like with the lower splines section, and slip the lower part of the column down into here further.. to get the room you need to get everything back on. Once everything is bolted back on you will need to slip this back to the same or near abouts place.

And then your done

Finished and Installed

Work has picked up so flat out designing some websites, might do a blog to show off them later.

Also while making a battery mount bracket i slipped with the angle grinder and took a bit off my finger, so been a tad sore to work on it.

Although i have arranged a few things and purchased a few parts for it.

First off, from Tune Agent a alloy oil adaptor

Tune Agent Oil adaptor

With this instead of using a restrictive sandwich plate where the oil filter sits, i can unbolt the oil filter adaptor and bolt this on in place, with holes for pipes to the remote filter and oil cooler, and two bosses for gauges senders (oil temp/oil pressure)

Next on the list was a set of alloy light weight pulleys from midnightmods for the alternator, water pump and crank

Midnight Mods Pulleys

They don’t really do a great deal, they are a bit lighter so can gain an extra kw, maybe half haha, but got them for some work i done for midnightmods, so no loss there.

If you get the proper jap set, they are different sizes to slow down the alternator so it wont wear out/over charge as much from high RPM while racing/drifting.

1 last thing for this week was a solid steering bush.

Steering Bush

This replaced the rubber one in the engine bay that wears out and has a lot of movement in it. Will increase steering feel and more direct.

Also grabbed a steering wheel boss so i can chuck on a nardi or OMP deep dish wheel. With the car being hicas originally, but all is removed i will show you how i did this in the next post..

Lots of updates this weekend

Got to the guys house, turns out John already knows the guy through his family, so we stayed for a bit to chat.

In the garage is a Toyota Soarer that the engine has just come out of, it had been stripped to build a sports sedan with a Lexus V8 motor. The thing was immaculate, lots of prep work done to it, and was getting seam welded soon.

The owners friend was there, turned out he worked for Cigweld and was going to take on all the seam welding.

5minutes later i had a crash course on structural welding from the guy and some good tips on how to do chassis etc on cars. Planning on maybe doing a bit to the 180sx to get it a tad stiffer and safer. Just have to practice welding some more to make sure i dont burn holes all through the floorpan..

I will document all this and include photos in the coming months..

I dropped into my local mechanic where i used to work as an apprentice, needed to pick up a fuel filter for another car, had a chat to my old boss which was there on his own as his other mechanic hadn’t shown up, and he had hurt his back again, so i offered to lend a hand for a few hours which turned into 5..

worked on a few cars till around 5pm, then called it a day as i was meant to pick up Johns new 1jz engine.

Got half was out to Johns with the engine crane and trailer and got a MSG saying he couldn’t do it tonight, maybe the weekend.

Next morning i called my old boss at the mechanics and he asked if i could come in again, so got down them around 8:30am and worked till about 4pm. Done a few services, changed a fuel pump finished off the timing belt on the Holden, and lots of other general mechanic crap.

Then conned my old boss to let me work on a mates car there, so Bart with his new S14 came in and we shimmed up the stock Viscous LSD on the hoist, was nice and easy with all the right tools.

Took some time to get the diff centre back in the housing, but by 8pm we had it in and some some skids in the car park.

In a week or 2 when i redo my diff i will do a blog on it with pictures to show everyone how to shim up a stock nissan diff for some better LSD traction..

Also got the 2nd isolator switch, 1st is for the starter motor, 2nd for the ignition. I probly could have run just the one switch but as this car is wired there are to main lines running from the battery.

Bits Purchased today

Ran the wires from the battery box which will be where the back seats were, into the dash for the switches, then into the engine bay for the starter motor and fusebox.

Battery Box

So tomorrow’s task when the sun is up again is to bolt the battery box down, moddify my battery mount to fit the box, and then we are set..

Also today i pulled apart some of the engine bay wire harness and removed the old battery wire that i will now use for the earth in the back seat from battery box..

Dual kill switches

Looked around the car and thought id chuck it in the dash next to my volts gauge, so i started cutting out a plate of alloy i found in the shed

Dash Bracket

Now at this stage I’m thinking how i can persuade my readers that it is going to look good.

I take a 5min break here as my hands are bleeding and sore and start searching for some more grinding wheels.

Then i test fit my Gauge and Kill switch

Gauge and switch

The long slot is for the 2nd kill switch but i haven’t got it here yet.

Now for a test fit in the car

Gauge and switch in car

Here you can see it doesn’t look so bad.

Next will be to run the wires from the battery to the switches then into the engine bay.

Also im going to give this new dash bracket a light sand, clean and a fresh coat of matt black paint.

Should look the part once in there.

Dash With all gauges